The full case split — flywheel puller, bearing heat-fit, sealing O-rings, bolt-length order, and the 7 Nm case torque.
Guide
Crankshaft removal & installation
Difficulty: AdvancedTime: ~90 minApplies to: Gas boardsLast updated: Sep 2026
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· JETSURF Service Tutorials #11. Timestamps in the steps below follow the video's on-screen counter (0:05–7:57).
This is the deepest teardown in the series — the cases come apart. It needs the flywheel puller set, a heat gun, and both grades of Loctite. The flywheel hub is single-use once heated, and the case bolts have to go back in the right order. Case and hub torque are 7 Nm.
Green Loctite (hub-to-crankshaft mating surface), blue Loctite (hub bolt)
Petroleum jelly / Vaseline (sealing O-rings)
Cleaner or mineral spirits
New flywheel hub, new bearings, new crankshaft oil seals, new sealing O-rings
Removal
0:05 — Secure the flywheel hub with the holding tool and unscrew the flywheel retaining bolt from the crankshaft with a Torx T6.
0:30 — Attach the flywheel puller. Set the special tool under the puller bolt, resting it against the crankshaft.
0:37 — Tighten the puller down as far as it will go.
0:51 — Heat the flywheel hub with the heat gun until it releases from the crankshaft, then draw it off with the puller. Do not reuse the flywheel hub — heating damages the magnets.
1:25 — Remove the woodruff key. It can be reused if it isn't oxidized or rusty — clean it if needed.
1:36 — Unscrew the five crankcase bolts with a 4 mm Allen key. The bolts are different lengths — note which position each came from.
2:12 — Slightly split the case halves and lift the crankshaft out.
2:20 — Clean the parts with cleaner or mineral spirits and remove the crankshaft oil seals.
Bearings
2:20 — Heat the crankcase halves with a heat gun or in an oven — the old bearings should drop out easily. High burn risk.
2:31 — Reheat the case halves and drop the new bearings in while hot — this is the easiest method. If you can't heat them, drive the bearings in with the special tool.
2:55 — Check that every bearing is fully seated.
Installation
4:37 — Fit the sealing O-rings into the crankcase grooves. Grease them with petroleum jelly to ease them in.
5:24 — Insert the sleeves into the crankshaft cover.
5:34 — Set the crankshaft into one case half, cover it with the other, and start the five bolts with a 4 mm Allen key.
6:29 — The longer bolts go on the injector side.
7:12 — Tighten the case bolts to 7 Nm.
7:27 — Insert the woodruff key into the crankshaft.
7:37 — Apply green Loctite to the mating surface between the flywheel hub and the crankshaft.
7:57 — Fit the new hub and tighten it with the Torx T6 bolt and washer — always with blue Loctite on the bolt.
Tip: lay the five case bolts out in the order they came off so the lengths go back where they belong — longer ones on the injector side. Heat-fitting the bearings beats pressing them every time; have the new bearings to hand before the cases come up to temperature.
Caution: heated crankcase halves and hubs cause serious burns — use gloves and a safe surface. Never reuse the flywheel hub after heating. Green Loctite goes on the hub/crankshaft mating surface, blue Loctite on the hub bolt — don't swap them.
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