Pulling the freewheel off the engine and refitting it with fresh Loctite and the correct 11 Nm torque.
Guide
Freewheel removal & installation
Difficulty: IntermediateTime: ~20 minApplies to: Gas boardsLast updated: Sep 2026
Watch the walkthrough
Watch on YouTube ↗
· JETSURF Service Tutorials #4. Timestamps in the steps below follow the video's on-screen counter (0:22–2:36).
The freewheel is the one-way clutch between the engine and the drivetrain. Pull it if it's slipping, notchy, or you're doing engine work behind it. Have Loctite and a torque wrench ready before you start — the refit spec matters.
0:22 — Secure the freewheel so it can't rotate, then remove the cover using wrench no. 41.
0:42 — Loosen the center screw with a 4 mm Allen key.
0:42 — Switch to a 3 mm Allen key, loosen the remaining screws, and lift the freewheel off.
Installation
1:08 — Fit the freewheel. Fasten it to the engine with the screw (Loctite applied) and the offset washer, starting it with a 4 mm Allen key.
1:50 — Torque the freewheel screw to 11 Nm.
2:01 — Apply Loctite to the screw cap and tighten it.
2:36 — Finally, tighten the 3 mm screw and make sure everything is firmly secured.
Tip: hold the freewheel stationary with the holding tool while you break the screw loose and while you torque it down — don't let the load run back through the engine.
Caution: don't skip the torque spec — the freewheel screw is 11 Nm, no more. Always use fresh Loctite on the screw and the cap; never refit them dry.
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