Maintain · Gas boards

Flywheel hub removal & installation

Puller and heat gun to get the flywheel hub off the crankshaft, then a new hub set with green and blue Loctite.

Guide

Flywheel hub removal & installation

Difficulty: Advanced Time: ~20 min Applies to: Gas boards Last updated: Sep 2026

Watch the walkthrough

Watch on YouTube ↗ · JETSURF Service Tutorials #13 (titled "shaft coupling" on YouTube, but the video and its description cover the flywheel hub). Timestamps in the steps below follow the video's on-screen counter (0:05–1:54).

This is the standalone flywheel hub job — the same procedure as the first part of Crankshaft removal & installation, without splitting the cases. You need the puller set and a heat gun. The hub is single-use once heated.

Tools & supplies

Removal

  1. 0:05 — Secure the flywheel hub with the holding tool and unscrew the flywheel retaining bolt from the crankshaft with a Torx T6.
  2. 0:30 — Attach the flywheel puller. Set the special tool under the puller bolt, resting it against the crankshaft.
  3. 0:37 — Tighten the puller down as far as it will go.
  4. 0:51 — Heat the flywheel hub with the heat gun until it releases from the crankshaft.
  5. 0:56 — Draw the hub off with the puller. Do not reuse the flywheel hub — heating damages the magnets.

Installation

  1. 1:25 — Insert the woodruff key into the crankshaft.
  2. 1:36 — Apply green Loctite to the mating surface between the flywheel hub and the crankshaft.
  3. 1:54 — Fit the new hub and tighten it with the Torx T6 bolt and washer — always with blue Loctite on the bolt.
Tip: heat the hub evenly, not one spot — you want the whole hub to expand off the taper. Have the new hub and both Loctite grades ready before you start so the crankshaft taper doesn't sit exposed.
Caution: the heated hub causes burns — use gloves and a safe surface. Never refit a hub that's been heated. Green Loctite goes on the hub/crankshaft mating surface, blue Loctite on the bolt — don't swap them.
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