Puller and heat gun to get the flywheel hub off the crankshaft, then a new hub set with green and blue Loctite.
Guide
Flywheel hub removal & installation
Difficulty: AdvancedTime: ~20 minApplies to: Gas boardsLast updated: Sep 2026
Watch the walkthrough
Watch on YouTube ↗
· JETSURF Service Tutorials #13 (titled "shaft coupling" on YouTube, but the video and its description cover the flywheel hub). Timestamps in the steps below follow the video's on-screen counter (0:05–1:54).
This is the standalone flywheel hub job — the same procedure as the first part of Crankshaft removal & installation, without splitting the cases. You need the puller set and a heat gun. The hub is single-use once heated.
Green Loctite (hub-to-crankshaft mating surface), blue Loctite (hub bolt)
New flywheel hub
Woodruff key — reusable if it isn't oxidized or rusty
Removal
0:05 — Secure the flywheel hub with the holding tool and unscrew the flywheel retaining bolt from the crankshaft with a Torx T6.
0:30 — Attach the flywheel puller. Set the special tool under the puller bolt, resting it against the crankshaft.
0:37 — Tighten the puller down as far as it will go.
0:51 — Heat the flywheel hub with the heat gun until it releases from the crankshaft.
0:56 — Draw the hub off with the puller. Do not reuse the flywheel hub — heating damages the magnets.
Installation
1:25 — Insert the woodruff key into the crankshaft.
1:36 — Apply green Loctite to the mating surface between the flywheel hub and the crankshaft.
1:54 — Fit the new hub and tighten it with the Torx T6 bolt and washer — always with blue Loctite on the bolt.
Tip: heat the hub evenly, not one spot — you want the whole hub to expand off the taper. Have the new hub and both Loctite grades ready before you start so the crankshaft taper doesn't sit exposed.
Caution: the heated hub causes burns — use gloves and a safe surface. Never refit a hub that's been heated. Green Loctite goes on the hub/crankshaft mating surface, blue Loctite on the bolt — don't swap them.
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